If you ever have the pleasure of visiting Nagoya, be sure to visit on an empty stomach. Nestled in the heart of Aichi Prefecture, Nagoya is the third biggest city in Japan. It’s renowned for its rich history, vibrant festivals, and, of course, the delectable cuisine.
Nagoya is especially well-known for its red miso, whereas Tokyo and many other prefectures tend to use white or mixed miso. Nagoya cuisine is also often referred to as B級グルメ (Grade B gourmet)— or food that isn’t as fancy as high-end sushi or wagyu, but still delicious and much more affordable.
Below, we’ll take a look at 6 of the most memorable and beloved local dishes, and where you can try them.
Miso Katsu: Deep fried pork cutlets with miso sauce
While you can find katsu (breaded and deep-fried meat cutlets) in restaurants and homes all over Japan, Nagoya has its own unique twist on this family meal: miso katsu.
Instead of the usual tonkatsu sauce, miso katsu is generously topped with a rich and savory red miso-based sauce, which adds a delightful depth of flavor. The sauce has just the right hint of sweetness to tie together the crispy breaded pork cutlets, fluffy bed of white rice, and cabbage on the side. You can add Japanese mustard and ground sesame to the katsu to enhance the flavors to your liking.
Miso katsu is generally served in a set with rice, miso soup, pickles and cabbage, called teishoku. It’s also available a la carte, but I recommend getting the set for the full experience. Miso katsu has become a local favorite, and Nagoya is the best place to try this mouthwatering sensation.
Price: Around ¥1200 for a miso katsu rice bowl, closer to ¥2000 for a teishoku set.
Where to eat: The most well-known store is a franchise called Yabaton, which serves miso katsu made from various cuts of pork. There are 2 or 3 Yabaton stores at Nagoya station alone, so even if you’re just taking a short break and getting off the bullet train, you can make a pit stop at Yabaton. Just look for the logo of a pig wearing a loin cloth—but beware, these stores are always busy so there’s usually a line, especially on the weekends.
For an elevated experience, go to the original Yabaton store at Yabacho Station on the purple subway Meijo line, about 10 minutes away by train.
Local Japanese tourists and foreign tourists alike will stop by for miso katsu, and if there’s only one thing you have time to try in Nagoya, definitely make it miso katsu.
For more information, check out the Yabaton English website.
Hitsumabushi: Grilled eel served 3 ways
One of Nagoya’s most iconic dishes, hitsumabushi is a must-try for any food enthusiast visiting the city. This grilled eel delicacy is served over rice and comes with a flavorful unagi sauce that enhances the dish’s taste.
Eel is a delicacy served all over Japan as sushi, or over rice in unaju bowls, or as kabayaki (dipped in sauce and grilled). But hitsumabushi is distinct from these variations in the way it’s eaten.
Hitsumabushi is enjoyed in 3 different ways: savoring a portion of the dish as it is, mixing the eel and rice with condiments such as wasabi, nori, or green onions, and finally, adding a dashi broth to create a chazuke, or flavored rice porridge.
The restaurant staff will usually explain this process to you, and recommend you divide your eel bowl into quarters to try the 3 ways of eating. The last quarter can be eaten in your favorite way— or you can mix both the condiments and broth.
This layered eating experience not only adds an element of excitement and complexity to the meal, but the interior of these restaurants tend to be very traditionally Japanese, making hitsumabushi an unforgettable Japanese culinary adventure.
Hitsumabushi is pronounced hee-tsu-mah-boo-shi and is usually served as a set with soup and pickles.
Price:
Around ¥4000 per person. Eel is considered a delicacy in Japan and is said to have the power to replenish energy and cure exhaustion.
Where to eat:
Houraiken, which is widely accepted as the creator of the dish and has been in business since the Meiji Era. I went to the Atsuta Jingu store after visiting the shrine.
Find details at Houraiken website.
Maruya is another famous restaurant, and from the looks of the website they also have a high-sense of Japanese interior decoration and great atmosphere.
Be sure to make a reservation in advance, as these are popular with the local population as well. Both of these stores should have English speaking staff.
Tebasaki – Nagoya chicken wings
For those seeking a spicy kick, Nagoya’s peppery chicken wings are a must-try. These juicy chicken wings are marinated in a spicy-sweet glaze, typically made with soy sauce, garlic, ginger, and red pepper. They’re deep-fried or pan-fried, depending on the restaurant. Many local establishments also offer different levels of spiciness to cater to various preferences, making it an exciting challenge for spicy food enthusiasts.
I particular like the maboroshi no tebasaki (phantom chicken wings) at a local chain of izakayas called Sekai no Yamachan. These chicken wings are glazed and deep-fried with a dry rub of spices and black pepper, and have the perfect balance of sweet and savory.
Whether you’re a fan of spicy food or simply looking to indulge in some finger-licking goodness, Tebasaki is a quintessential Nagoya delicacy, and pairs well with Japanese sake or beer.
Price:
¥600 – ¥1000 per serving.
Where to eat:
Sekai no Yamachan or Furaibo, both chain stores and can be found at most major stations.
Learn more at the Yamachan or Furaibou websites, both in English.
Taiwan Mazesoba
Pronounced mah-zeh-so-ba, Taiwan mazesoba (on the left) is similar to ramen, but with no soup and with thick noodles. This bowl of noodles is topped with spicy minced meat, raw egg yolk, dried seaweed, spring onions, garlic, leeks, red pepper powder, and a mixture of other flavors and sauces.
Normal mazesoba (on the right) has chunks of pork instead of minced meat, and is less spicy. Both types of mazesoba are different from most other noodles served in Japan because of how it’s eaten— after stirring the toppings in, you finish the noodles and add a bowl of white rice to the leftover sauce and toppings. Make sure to mix well. Hence the name mazesoba, because maze is the word for mix or stir.
You can add vinegar and spicy oil to the noodles if you prefer a change in taste as well.
Price: ¥1000
Where to eat:
Teppen, or Hanabi. There’s a Hanabi at the Chubu International Airport if you’re short on time. This is less well-known to the foreign population and might not have English speaking staff.
Hanabi is known as the originator of the dish, but I actually prefer Teppen, which I find more flavorful.
Find more information at their websites: Menya Hanabi or Teppen Haru
Nagoya Cochin
Just like there’s branded beef and pork (think Kobe beef), there’s also “brand-name” chicken. Nagoya Cochin is a breed of local chicken that’s highly regarded for its tender meat and rich flavor. The chickens are raised in a controlled environment and fed a special diet, resulting in more umami and elasticity of the meat.
This premium chicken is prepared in various ways, such as yakitori (grilled skewers), sukiyaki (hot pot), and oyakodon (chicken and egg over a bowl of rice). My favorite is yakitori, as I think the charcoal and the grilling brings out the umami and chewiness in the best way.
Fun fact: there are Nagoya cochin chickens roaming around Atsuta Jingu, the second biggest shrine in Japan, and one of the local tourist attractions. It may seem that the shrine workers are keeping them as pets, but there’s a rumor that the chickens just came and started living there one day. Since certain animals (including chicken) are seen as divine messengers of the local deity, these particular chickens are obviously not harmed or eaten.
Price:
Depends on the way it’s prepared and the restaurant, but expect it to be more 1.5 to 2 times more expensive than regular chicken.
Where to eat:
If you’re lacking time, you can find Nagoya cochin at the “umaimon dori” full of restaurants at Nagoya Station.
Kishimen
Kishimen is like Nagoya’s version of udon noodles. These thick, flat, and chewy noodles are served in a soy-based broth with various toppings such as green onions, tempura, and thinly sliced pork. The simplicity of the dish allows the natural flavors to come through, and the satisfying texture of the noodles adds a delightful chewiness.
I personally prefer richer flavors, but I imagine this is the Nagoya version of chicken noodle soup—it’s easy on the stomach and warms the heart.
Price: Around ¥1000 per bowl
Where to eat:
You can find kishimen anywhere—there’s even a stand-up stall right off the bullet train platforms at Nagoya station. You can also find kishimen inside Atsuta Jingu.
Honorable Mentions:
If you’re spending more than a week in Nagoya, I recommend trying the below dishes as well.
- Miso nikomi udon: a stewed miso and udon noodle dish.
- Doteni: beef tendons, radish, and intestines stewed in miso. Both miso nikomi udon and doteni are perfect for a cold day, and make use of the famous Nagoya red miso, which is a staple in Nagoyan cooking.
- Taiwan ramen: different from mazesoba, but with Taiwanese influences. The most renowned store for Taiwan ramen is Misen, a local chain which is known for the super spicy Taiwan ramen and a variety of other Chinese dishes.
In Conclusion
Nagoya’s culinary scene is an explosion of flavors, showcasing the city’s rich food culture and unique delicacies. From the renowned hitsumabushi to the tender Nagoya Cochin and the crispy tebasaki, each dish reflects the region’s distinct culinary heritage.
Nagoya food is unmistakably more famous than the local attractions such as the Nagoya Castle and Atsuta Jingu; so when you find yourself in Nagoya, be sure to embark on a culinary adventure, and let your taste buds be captivated by the tantalizing array of flavors that await you.
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